 January 14, 2003 - There's a certain amount of creative ability, intuition, patience and knowledge that goes along with proper pruning. While not all of us are equally blessed with creativity and intuition, we are all blessed with the ability to learn, and it's amazing how a few pruning guidelines can help you with your tree pruning.
The main reasons for pruning trees are to: develop a strong framework and to remove undesirable, dead, crossed and rubbing or weakened branches. When it comes to fruit trees, grape vines, shrubs and lots of other woody plants, the objectives and even the timing of pruning can be quite different, so don't compare the pruning techniques of different categories of plants.
There are many misconceptions about pruning a tree and what a properly pruned tree looks like. For example, some people think trees get too tall! If that's truly the case...it means the wrong tree has been planted in the wrong place.
Here are some guidelines you'll want to use when pruning or hiring a professional for your shade trees.
- Never prune unless you know why. If you don't have firm objectives for pruning then...don't! Plants will not die or decline because they are not pruned and in the case of poor pruning...they would have been better off left alone.
- Never pattern your pruning after you neighbor's! Your neighbor or other models may not know how to prune. Get advice from Texas Cooperative Extension, Texas Forest Service, City Parks Department, Keep Midland Beautiful or Keep Odessa Beautiful.
- Most trees are best pruned just prior to bud break, which is late winter or early spring. There are some exceptions to this rule, like oak trees in areas with oak wilt fungus, which should be pruned during the coldest part of the winter to protect it from the fungus.
- Pruning cuts do not need to be sealed with any sealer. Research has proven this does not help and may even hinder a tree. But, in areas with known oak wilt fungus, all oaks with pruning cuts one inch in diameter or larger should be painted as soon as the cut is made to protect it from oak wilt fungus infection.
- Always prune young trees with the notion of "training" to develop a strong, desirable framework that will service that tree for years to come. Training involves selecting and developing a central leader (main trunk), permanent scaffold branches, gradually removing temporary low branches and eliminating undesirable branches before they become too large.
- When selecting permanent branches, choose those with a wide "U-shaped" branch crotch angle. The axis between the trunk and branch should be wide and it will resist splitting in ice, wind and snow. A narrow or "V-shaped" branch angle is crowded and can split which will damage or destroy the tree.
- When training young trees leave some of the lower branches temporarily. Keep these "temporary" branches about 10 - 15 inches long. Temporary branches shade, protect and feed the tree. As these "temporary" branches reach 1-11/2" in diameter, gradually remove them. This valuable method of training is called "trashy trunk."
Related: "Pruning Your Young Tree" diagram from the Texas Forest Service
- Always prune mature trees with the notion of "maintenance, health and safety." This means removing what's wrong; like branches on the roof, eave, driveway and so forth. Pruning for health and safety means removing dead, damaged or decayed wood.
- Simplify your pruning by always removing the obvious first...dead, diseased or damaged wood, crossed and rubbing limbs, crowded limbs, branches with narrow branch angles, limbs that are too low, limbs on the roof, and wood otherwise in the way.
- If branches have grown into power lines, don't attempt to prune them. Call your power company to get a line clearance company who specializes in this type of pruning.
Related: "Planting Near Utility Lines" diagram from the Texas Forest Service
- Never make a "flush" cut. This outdated concept is wrong. A flush cut makes the wound size much larger and it removes the branch bark collar, a slightly bulged area at the base of the branch. This collar contains plant hormones that will help wall the injured area off so decay, insects and disease won't progress into the trunk or branch. A proper cut should be made just outside the branch bark collar which will result in a slight stub.
Related: "How to Prune a Large Limb" diagram from the Texas Forest Service
- Never leave a "stub." A stub is wood that will can die back to the main trunk or main branch or it will send out a proliferation of many rapidly growing, weakly attached shoots. Stub cuts destroy the natural shape, beauty and health of a tree.
- Never "top" a tree. Topping weakens a tree by removing stored food and potential leaf surface for making food to support the tree. Topping leads to insect, disease, decay and death. A tree's life span and strength is shortened by topping.
- Don't "over prune." Never remove more than 1/3 of the top growth at one time. There is a popular, but damaging trend that involves the removal of too many interior and lateral branches. A tree pruned in this manner is left with skinned branches that terminate with a tuft of growth at the end of the branch. This destructive pruning causes sunscald, reduces photosynthetic leaf surface area, and weakens the tree.
- Maintain "thirds." Whether training a young, middle age or mature tree try to maintain the bottom third of the tree in trunk and the top two thirds of the tree in canopy (branches and leaves). This is a good rule of thumb creating visual balance and a healthy balance for the tree.
This and all Texas Cooperative Extension information is available to the public regardless of race, color, sex, age, national origin, religion, veteran status or disability. Call 432-498-4071 for more information or for pruning brochures.
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